[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: moire endsheets
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU
- Subject: Re: moire endsheets
- From: Richard Minsky <minsky@MINSKY.COM>
- Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 21:30:10 -0500
- Message-Id: <199703210240.SAA16366@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "The Book Arts: binding, typography, collecting" <BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU>
When I do moire endsheets it's the old way-- card them-- and only for full leather bindings with leather hinges. The leather is not pared thin at the turn-ins, and the hinge is beveled from the gutter edge of the board, where it is thin (of course it is thin in the joint), to the same thickness as the turn-ins (about 3/8" to 1" in from the edge). In other words, there is an even border of leather on the inside of the cover, which is often tooled and/or inlaid. The thickness of the leather = the card + 2 thicknesses of silk. The silk is wrapped around the card and glued on the back. The corners are mitered so they do not overlap (too thick). The card is then glued into the "frame" of leather, and is level with it.
If the endleaf is also to be moire, it is "carded" on thin paper which is "made" to the endleaf.
The advantage of this method is that you get the true effect of the moire, which scintillates. Pasting it as you would a paper-backed silk bookcloth used for covering the boards tends to "flatten" the effect, so it looks "dead."