[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: sharpening knives
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU
- Subject: Re: sharpening knives
- From: Sam Lanham <slanham@HCTC.NET>
- Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:24:57 -0400
- In-Reply-To: <199704161848.NAA26130@austin.sig.net>
- Message-Id: <199704162325.QAA29171@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "The Book Arts: binding, typography, collecting" <BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU>
I would like some feed back on how others sharpen their knives,
> paring or bouble beveled types.
I don't work with leather as much as you probably do so this may not be of
much help. Also, I don't have but one double-beveled knife on my bench
(other than razor-blade knives) and I keep it dull on purpose for cutting
folded paper. For all my knives I sharpen with Japanese water stones. Like
you, I try to keep my knives from getting to the point where they need work
on the rougher stones but when they do I start with a 400 grit wet wheel;
from there I go to a 1000 grit, then to a "blue" stone--about 1600-2000
grit, and finally to a "gold" stone---about 8000 grit used with a Nagura
stone. When the knives don't need the full treatment I usually can start
with the blue stone. The gold is really a polishing stone and I use only
very light strokes. Maybe it's just my preference for things Asian, but I
really prefer the water stones to the Arkansas stones, wet, oiled, or dry.
I usually finish with a bit of stropping but the gold stone is actually
finer than jeweler's rouge and most strop preparations.
I have gotten most of my stones from The Japanese Woodworker (800-537-7820)
but Woodcraft also has a good selection.
Sam Lanham (firstname.lastname@example.org)