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Re: Oil Marbling paints
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU
- Subject: Re: Oil Marbling paints
- From: David Glover <dglover@NETRA.GLENDALE.CC.CA.US>
- Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 15:07:33 -0800
- Message-Id: <199710312206.OAA18454@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "The Book Arts: binding, typography, collecting" <BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU>
DON'T use Doctor Martins! They fade badly!
If you want to use water colour stay with WN and watch the series
Michael Babcock wrote:
> You may want to try P.H.Martins Concentrated Water Colours.
> Oil paints are not the thing to use. Even though the film thickness
> and therefore the amount of medium (linseed oil) is minimal, you could
> run into an archivability problem.
> Linseed or any other oil will oxidize over time. Oil paintings are
> always done on a "sized ground". The strata, in order, would be:
> Canvas, Skin Glue (sizing), & Lead White (for the purist).
> The size acts as a neutral buffer between the acidic oil in the white
> ground and the canvas.
> If one were to paint in oils directly upon the canvas, over time, the
> oils would oxidize (slow fire) and "burn" the canvas.
> Even though you are using alum as a size, my guess would be that the
> thickness of that strata is not great enough to prevent the oils from
> contacting the paper.
> Plus, oil paint takes too long to dry. Water colors are your best
> I have several books at home on marbling, I would be happy to post the
> titles later if you haven't received the full bib already.
> Michael Babcock