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Re: urban printer's myth
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU
- Subject: Re: urban printer's myth
- From: "Rupert N. Evans" <r-evans4@STAFF.UIUC.EDU>
- Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:36:58 -0500
- In-Reply-To: <199905240637.BAA14526@vortex.cso.uiuc.edu>
- Message-Id: <199905241538.IAA21416@palimpsest.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "Book_Arts-L: READ THE FAQ at http://www.dreamscape.com/pdverhey" <BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU>
You are correct that vinyl folders are not good for laser-printed copies
or for output from a copying machine. The problem, however, is not with the
copies, but with the vinyl itself. Vinyl in its natural state is
inflexible. To make a vinyl sheet flexible, the manufacturer mixes in one
or more plasticizers. Unfortunately, these plasticizers gradually migrate
out of the sheet and attack nearby plastics. Incidentally, "new car smell"
is caused by plasticizers leaving the plastic in an automobile.
The solution is to avoid vinyl sheet material. Mylar is much better,
though a bit more expensive.
There is one real problem with copies made with toner. It does not
withstand tight folding or scuffing. One rarely folds the pages of a book.
If folding is necessary, plan the printing so that it does not lie across
the fold. Scuffing is rarely a problem on the pages of a book, but it is a
problem for laser-printed soft covers for books. My solution is to cover
the printing with a laminate. Xyron single-sided lamination works well, as
does Cleer-Adheer mylar lamination. You end up with a cover which is far
superior to a cover printed conventionally.
At 11:53 PM 5/23/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>>>Sounds like some kind of urban printer's myth to me.<<
>I guarantee that it's not. Every laser printed "original" I've done and put
>in a vinyl binder has transferred to and stuck to the vinyl. Just try
>colouring or painting on one; the results are not longlasting.
>Mullin Art Publishing