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Re: More on Drilling



The following is an excerpt from my book,=20
"Book-on-Demand Publishing" is $24, including postage in the U.S. 248 pages,
soft covers. ISBN1-881676-02-1. It is available from several sources,=
 including
the publisher direct from me at 101 W Windsor Rd., Urbana, IL 61802-6697. It
includes info on costs, step-by-step details on printing and binding, and=
 info
on the minimal equipment needed.

Drilling and Punching Paper
        Holes in paper can be produced by punching or drilling. The most=
 common
use of holes is for loose leaf binding, but other types of binding also use
holes of various sizes in different configurations. Most punches won't=
 handle a
stack of paper more than about 3/32" (3 mm) thick, but one exception is the
Acco 650 Mega-Duty punch which puts two or three holes through 100 or more
sheets of 20 pound bond =BD" (12 mm) thick with one strong push on its long
handle (Quill #941-74650, $150). It makes only one size of hole, 9/32" (7=
 mm).
        Paper drills can go through a stack of paper an inch (25 mm) or two
inches (50 mm) thick as if it were butter. A paper drill is basically a=
 small
drill press with a clamp to hold the paper down. However, an ordinary drill=
 bit
designed for metal or wood would tear up the paper, rather than making a=
 clean
hole. The drill bit for paper is a steel tube with a countersunk cutting=
 edge.
The tubes are designed to fit in one and only one of four standard styles of
head.=20
        Paper drill bits range in size from c" to =BD" in diameter. As they=
 slice
through the paper the cut-out circles flow up through the tube and out a=
 hole
in its side or top. As they emerge they are deposited in a receptacle from
which they are removed periodically. Some drill bits are coated with teflon,
which reduces the heat and smooths the passage of paper through the drill.=
 They
cost about $20 each from Printers Shopper.
        Drill bits for paper get dull after a few hours of use, but they can=
 be
resharpened easily. A carbide 60 degree =BD" diameter countersink does the=
 job;
they are available from mill supply stores for about $35. Countersinks with
handles or cranks are sold by Printers Shopper from $36 to $100.=20
        Both paper punches and paper drills are available to cut several=
 holes
at the same time. Three hole punches which make =BC" holes are for sale at=
 any
office supply store for about $30. Better punches allow the distance between
holes to be adjusted, and allow one, two, or three holes to be punched at=
 the
same time. Paper drills which make one hole at a time cost $600 or more;=
 three
spindle machines are considerably more expensive. Still more expensive=
 drills
are fed through the paper by hydraulics, rather than by the more common hand=
 or
foot feed.

Making a Paper Drill
        If you have a drill press with a =BD chuck and have access to a=
 metal
cutting lathe, it is possible to make your own paper drill quite=
 inexpensively.
There are four key parts to a paper drill: the mechanism for rotating the=
 drill
bit and for pressing it through the paper; the drill bit; the hole catcher;=
 and
the clamp to hold the paper down when the drill bit is withdrawn.
        The drill press supplies the mechanism for driving the drill bit.

(Insert the attachment here)
Figure 10-2 Paper Drill

        If you have access to a metal cutting lathe, you can easily make the
drill bit and the hole catcher by following the dimensions shown in Figure
10-2. The drill bit is made from =BD" diameter drill rod. It is cross=
 drilled,
using a c" drill, a =BC" drill, and a d" drill. Drill and ream hole B before
turning diameter A. If you ream after turning, the outside diameter will be=
 too
large.
        I like to keep four sizes of paper drills on hand, with hole B being
1/8", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". In each case, diameter A is .020" larger than=
 hole
B.
        Form the cutting edge by countersinking hole B. It is not necessary=
 to
harden the drill.
        There is only one critical dimension on the aluminum hole catcher.=
 Its
half-inch hole should be reamed or bored to .500=B1.001". If the drill is=
 not a
light press fit in the hole catcher, join them with an anaerobic sealant=
 such
as Loctite, or lightly knurl the drill. Assemble these two pieces so that 1"=
 of
the drill extends beyond the hole catcher, where it can be grasped by the=
 drill
press chuck. Chips will escape through the cross-drilled hole and be caught=
 in
the hole catcher, which fits against the bottom of the drill chuck.
        A 3/8" paper drill should be run at about 1000 RPM, while a 1/8"=
 drill
works best at about 3000 RPM. If the drill changes color to dark brown or=
 blue,
it is either turning too fast or it is dull. Put a piece of hardwood,
preferably end grain, under the paper to be drilled. Mark the places to be
drilled, using a ruler and pencil or a sheet of pre-punched paper.
        If you are going to drill several holes, build a fence and stops to
locate the paper. A presser foot, either cam actuated or spring-loaded, is
needed to hold the paper down while the drill is being withdrawn from the
paper. A standard cam-operated clamp which fastens to the column of the=
 drill
press works fairly well, but a better device is spring loaded, with the=
 springs
being compressed as the hole is drilled. The springs continue to hold down=
 the
paper until the drill is fully withdrawn,=20

At 11:48 AM 5/29/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>Rupert,
>Please make these directions available to the book list in general, if you
>can.  If not, would you please send a copy to me?
>Thanks!
>
>Susan Lightcap
>Vessels of the Spirit
>2 Wall St., Suite 106
>Asheville, NC 28801
>828 232-0202
>
>
>At 10:37 AM 5/29/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>If you have access to a metal lathe, I can send you directions for making=
 a
>>proper paper drill, which cuts very cleanly by removing a core of paper.
>>This bit is used in a standard drill press, and produces a much better
>>result than do bits designed for wood or metal.
>>rupert
>>



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