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Marbilizd Paper



I use, and swear by, either Classic Laid or Classic Linen. It is acid fre=
e
AND accepts marbling paints. The problem with many acid free papers is th=
at
they are bufferred with calcium carbonate, which repels alum and colors
during the marbling process. The color runs off. Permalin is another pape=
r
that works well, though I find it to be a bit stiff. The Classic Line is =
a
dream to work with, and is available through just about every paper
distributor found in anyone's local yellow pages under "paper". The best
thing to do is call your local paper distributor and ask for sample
booklets of these and other acid free papers. Test the little swatches in=

the books. When you find a few that work (and believe me, most will not
work!) you can usually then request several free sample sheets to test
further. The only problem with these large distributors is that you have =
to
buy whole cartons....usually 1000 sheets. If your person marbles a lot,
this should not be a problem to use up in a reasonable amount of time.

Many other papers will not marble as well, due to certain sizing processe=
s.
It is hard to find out what the buffer is, what they are sized with
(usually a rosin sizing) and just how heavily etc., because the technicia=
ns
at the large paper companies are generally very secretive.....maybe they
think you are spying for another paper company.....just kidding, but in a=
ny
case it's next to impossible to get any information. Another problem
marblers have found is that a paper they have used for years or decades
suddenly stops working. Many marblers back in the 80's were suddenly stuc=
k
with whole cartons of Mowhawk Superfine that would no longer work. Also
Hopper Sunray.

Another important thing to keep in mind is that a little acid is put back=

on the paper during the marbling process. The back of the sheet will stil=
l
be acid free, but the front may come up around PH6 or so. It's still pret=
ty
near acid free, but you may want to test it afterward. If it comes up
slightly acidic you can then de-acidify it after it dries. You can run it=

through a calcium carbonate bath AFTERWARDS without the colors running of=
f.
Or you can spray de-acidify it.

I have had sample sheets of my paper on display in the sunny store window=

of my very first customer for 22 1/2 years now, by the way, marbled on
Classic papers, and they are still in great shape. I strongly urge you to=

try these papers, they have never failed me.

Iris Nevins

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