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Re: Stab binding (was Japanese stab binding)



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          CENTRAL NEW YORK BOOK ARTS: TRADITIONAL TO INNOVATIVE
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Sean,

You might try twisting the end of the paper twist with some paste or PVA,
let it dry until it's stiff, then feed it through the holes.  That's what I
do.

Betty

At 12:10 PM 10/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
>             ***********************************************
>          CENTRAL NEW YORK BOOK ARTS: TRADITIONAL TO INNOVATIVE
>           See The Exhibition Online, And Order Your Catalog.
>                      <http://www.philobiblon.com>
>             ***********************************************
>
>I've been following Ikegami's intructions as closely as possible
>and have elected to use an ice pick and mallet as suggested by
>Pat. I had a problem with using the awl on a block of hanshi
>3/4" thick. The paper was just too strong at this thickness
>(a testament to Japanese papermaking). It was so strong that it
>broke my awl (a testament to the cheapness of my awl). I figure
>that an ice pick, being a larger version of a bookbinder's awl,
>will be more effective without sacrificing the apparent benefits
>of the awl as mentioned by Betty.
>
>As to the inner binding, I find it to be an absolute necessity
>during construction, as it allows me to keep the block squared
>while stabbing the sewing stations and affixing the cover. I was
>wondering, however, how the paper 'twists' in Ikegami's book are
>actually forced through the durn holes. I've just been using
>binder's thread instead.
>
>::::
>
>Sean Evans
>
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>
Betty Storz
PO Box 542
Mendocino, CA  95460

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            BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
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