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Re: [BKARTS] marbling help?



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Lynn,
I don't know of any rule of thumb for the order of paint application.
Even within a single brand, each acrylic paint will be formulated slightly
differently to account for the different properties (e.g. wettability,
particle size) of the individual pigments.
As a result, when you try marbling using these paints, each will have its
own unique spreading characteristics.
You should also expect variation from one brand to another.

You can control spreading somewhat by adding a spreading agent to the more
sluggish colours so they can hold their own against the colours that are
natural spreaders. Some people specially tune their colours based on the
order they intend to add them (I do not recall if the first colour is the
strongest or weakest spreader), but if you want to vary your colour
combinations you should make them all equal spreaders.

Each colour requires different amounts of water as well, for instance, with
the brand I normally use, Burnt Umber requires only a little water, while
White and Black require more to make them runny enough to sprinkle.

Most people recommend that the size be cool or cold. Warm size may cause
solvents to evaporate from the paint making it set on the surface, then when
you try combing it, it breaks up into little polygons and crumbles instead
of flowing smoothly.
The consistency of the size is a matter of taste... On a thicker size,
paints will spread more slowly but are less likely to sink (from their
momentum) when the droplets hit the surface, and in general combs and other
manipulations will produce more localized effects. The latter is also true
if the size is very shallow. On a thinner size, the paints spread faster,
but it is more likely that droplets applied too vigorously will torpedo to
the bottom, and combs and other tools will have a larger area of effect.

The water used to make the size has a critical effect on how the paints will
behave. At our shop we have regular tap water (which is "hard" water with a
high calcium content) and reverse-osmosis water (from a filter system). If
we make the size from the tap water the acrylics seem to set on the surface
and crumble when combed (although they hold onto the paper well), but it we
use the filtered water the paints comb OK but run off the paper more often.
-Kevin Martin
 the Papertrail

-----Original Message-----
From: Book_Arts-L: READ THE FAQ at
http://www.philobiblon.com[mailto:BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU]On Behalf Of
Lynn EDALIE
I have been teaching myself to marble paper
...
I am using wisks to throw Liquitex medium viscosity (acrylic) paints
(diluted with water to runny consistency) onto carrageenan/water size and am
having considerable difficulty with the order of addition of colors. Can
anyone tell  me if there's a "rule of thumb" regarding in what order to add
paints so that one doesn't spread too much and another doesn't sink to the
bottom of the size? Also, are some pigments just not possible to use for
marbling? And why can't I get clear, deep reds (I have found that I must
always add red last and that it spreads like crazy!)?

I also have questions about the size. Does it's temperature matter? And what
about the thickness? I've read several different recipes for it's creation
but should it be the consistency of water or closer to jell-o for use with
acrylic paints?

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