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Re: [BKARTS] Recent Fan and Perfect Bindings Discussions - Repair of Perfect Bindings from 1830/80s?
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- Subject: Re: [BKARTS] Recent Fan and Perfect Bindings Discussions - Repair of Perfect Bindings from 1830/80s?
- From: Gavin Stairs <stairs@STAIRS.ON.CA>
- Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:55:54 -0500
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The point that I was addressing is that these are hard board books with a
formed spine. In such a forming, the paper is flared slightly, to the
extent of perhaps 3mm on each side. While this is not a large amount, in
conjunction with the rounding, it does admit of the glue entering the block
to some degree. The clamp limits the extent of ingress somewhat, but the
spine will be stiffened quite a lot. If this were to be done with fan
gluing, the open pages at the apex would not be well adhered, and the spine
would be weak at that location, or a some other place.
When I am adhesive binding signatures which are Singer sewn, I clamp up and
lay a bead of glue which I force into the block as well as I can with my
finger. This effectively glues the signatures together, both by means of
their outer sheets, and by means of the glue film on the back adhering to
the threads of the stitching. This is made more secure if I also lay on a
fabric super, which I do only on large books. This works well because of
the rounding of the signatures, and the entry of the glue into the gap thus
formed. It is analogous to the method of guarding in pairs which I
suggested if the book paper is at all fragile.
The problem with the simple fan gluing is that it will not allow the back
to be formed properly for the boards and the rounded spine. I therefore
suggest that the forming be done prior to final gluing, although some glue
may be used to assist the forming instead of water. The pages will thereby
be opened to some degree, allowing the ingress of glue.
I agree that the weakness of this method is poor control of the depth of
glue penetration. In the case of the guarded sheets, this is less of a
problem, as flexibility is assured by the enclosed interface. Without the
guards, the possibility exists that the glue will penetrate too far,
particularly at the apex of the rounding. To each side, the pages will
tend to lie more tightly over each other, and the gluing will be like a fan
gluing, but without being restored to the straight configuration. They
will be adhered by the overlapping glue film, rather than by an
In the end, I suggest that several test books be glued by variations on the
suggested techniques, to see which is the most successful.
Here is one possibility which comes to mind: Clean and knock down the book
block, including end papers. Knock the book up square and clamp below the
notch by 6mm or so. Gently flare the pages as evenly as possible so that
the flare is about what is required for the notching. Prepare a tray of
glue with an even film of about 1-2mm of wet glue, and invert the book into
the tray, so that the glue may penetrate evenly as much as possible. Let
stand for a time, perhaps 10s or so, and withdraw vertically. Let stand to
set for a while longer, but not until the glue is fully set. Carefully
wipe off the drips while they are still liquid. Invert and place on board
suitable for forming the notch, place the upper board as well. Clamp
lightly and form the arc of the spine, then clamp up and beat down the
notch. Apply the super or tapes or whatever with fresh glue and let dry
At 10:21 AM 12/11/2002 -0800, Ben Wiens wrote:
>NON DOUBLE-FAN BINDING
>Gavin Stairs suggested using adhesive to bind without double-fanning.
>Personally I have had no luck at all in adhering pages using this method
>using any kind of adhesive when hand binding. When adhesive binding is used
>without double-fan gluing in factories, they use special soft roller
>applicators. The book block is clamped somewhat back of the spine with the
>spine pointing down. The spine is allowed to flair slightly. The soft
>applicator wheel squishes adhesive slightly between every page. The adhesive
>is hot melt, which penetrates the paper better. The same effect is hard to
>do by hand as you would have to apply adhesive underneath the book block.
>Even so the glue line is slightly uneven and is really only suitable for
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