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Re: [BKARTS] BOOK_ARTS-L Digest - 22 May 2003 to 23 May 2003 (#2003-142)



Dear David,

This question was addressed  year or two back I think  - I feel sure I
sent off-list an image attachment of my spokeshave finished cutting
surface to the enquirer.   As Don Drake said it may be in the archives,
but not the images of course.

Basically I have the simple (cheaper!) Stanley spokeshave, i.e. the one
without adjustment screws at each side.   For mine I have re-ground
the bottom surface to give a shallower cutting angle for the blade to
minimise the risk of "digging-in" and perhaps cutting through the
leather.  I think I did this with a large flat engineer's file and finished the
surface on fine emery paper

It is also most important  - at least for cutting leather -  to re-grind the
blade slightly.   Each corner is slightly rounded for a length of about
1/4" so that the side edges of the blade are not visible when the eye
looks along the bottom surface (you have to look along the surface to
accurately set the amount of the blade peeking out the slot in the
bottom surface anyway).   The blade also needs "grinding" across the
whole width  to meet the cutting angle indicated below.   As far as I can
remember I did this with a coarse stone and finished with a fine stone
(a two sided carborundum stone), but if you have a water cooled large
flat stone for sharpening plough blades, etc, this is ideal.

The bottom surface is grind to give an angle for the blade of roughly 30
deg -  it is not necessary to be precise that is a good enough angle I
have found for using the spoke shave.  One can make the angle
shallower to take a finer cut.

The final edge can be put on the blade with a very fine Arkansas stone
- I have one from Smith's Whetstone Inc in the USA, or similar, it is
almost as smooth like a piece of marble think they are called 5000 or
6000 grit stones.

All the items should be available in a good tool shop

Rodney Fry
Berks
England

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