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Re: [BKARTS] tips to avoid getting glue on paper



I've used a PVA / Methylcellulose mix or straight PVA for this operation
and it works just fine. While reversibility is important in conservation
work, I do not find that concept relevant for most new bindings, especially
since the paper will be damaged...  by those not experienced in removing
wet, weakened, paper that has been glued down.

I always use a brush, especially for the size of book mentioned. It's what
I'm used to. I use the biggest brush possible and load it up with glue (see
above). Brush out from the center to the outside edges. The same works with
a roller.

If you know the paper will curl, gently bend the corners back, before
gluing out. This way, when the paper starts to curl, it will be held back
and prevented from getting glue on the flyleaf, or itself. Test with
different papers before trying on a book. Another tip is to immediately
fold the paper back on itself leaving about an inch with exposed glue. That
edge should be parallel to the grain. Use that to align the paper, gently
rub down, and then carefully peel back the piece that you put back on
itself and smooth out. This works VERY well with paste and PVA/MC mix.
Straight PVA dries too fast, usually, even if diluted with water. ALWAYS
glue out the piece of material that will expand the most and allow that to
relax.. This will avoid bubbles. Paste will cause paper to expand more than
PVA. It's an adhesive worth considering. It has the very nice attribute
that messes can be gently cleaned with a damp sponge..., IF the paper /
cloth can handle it. TEST first to see how the surface reacts. Works great
for leather too. Also gives you plenty of time. Just remember to either
counter-line the other side to pull the board in, or use the same adhesive
on the other side.

If the problem is with casing in (attaching the cover to the textblock)
this technique will work as well. For books with decorated edges... I'll
insert a clean piece of UNprinted newsprint between the pastedown and the
flyleaf, glue out, remove the paper and complete the casing in.

My tip, make sure the grain of the endsheet is parallel to the spine. If
it's not, you've got a problem because when the paper expands it will be
restrained by the spine fold and you will get wicked creases.

Board warpage is a naturally occuring event when moisture is added from
glue... You get it when covering the case in cloth, leather, .. and again
when putting down the endsheet, in the opposite direction. The trick is to
know your materials, and how much they expand (and retract when dry). For
fun, measure a piece of paper when dry, then glue out and measure, then
again when dry. Try this with different materials. Let things dry between
boards (use blotters if needed) and under light weight. This will help keep
things flatter. Ditto when casing in.

Finally, non of this is earthshaking, and all part of working with the
materials we work with. The better one learns to handle different materials
and how to deal with them, the better the quality of the final product.
Experiment, keep records/notes, look at manuals (they're filled with tips).

Hope this helps.

Peter

At 05:31 PM 2/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
PVA is not suitable for end-papers because is not reversible and won't allow
for repositioning, and it is more prone to warping boards, etc.

Regards,

Ed Stansell


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Peter D. Verheyen
Bookbinder & Conservator
<verheyen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
The Book Arts Web & Book_Arts-L Listserv
<http://www.philobiblon.com>

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