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Re: [BKARTS] tips to avoid getting glue on paper



TONGUE DEPRESSORS! Rather than using my middle finger, or any finger, to keep the paper from moving while glue is being applied, I use the edge of tongue depressors (from the doctor). The tongue depressor is less than an inch wide. I hold it on one long edge, the wide face of the depressor perpendicular to the paper. That way none of my fingers (hopefully) get glue on them, exceptly slightly when the paper is turned over to be put into place. The thin edge of the tongue depressor does not mark the paper, nor does it stick to the paper. And if the paper is large, you have over 6 inches of "edge" holding the paper in place as you apply. The depressors get mucky over time, but I have a jar of 10 or so I haven't had to replace in over a year of steady book making. 
Cheers,
Alex Appella
www.transientbooks.com

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Carol Pratt 
  To: BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 1:47 AM
  Subject: Re: tips to avoid getting glue on paper


  I also use a PVA mix for endpapers and have no problems.  I use waste=20
  paper underneath the pastedown, so that as I glue out, I do not have to=20=

  worry about getting anything at all on the flyleaf.

  After gluing out I run a fingertip around the edges of the dampened=20
  sheet, removing extra adhesive from the outermost part, before dropping=20=

  the cover.  This little maneuver protects from any "too much" glue from=20=

  oozing out during the nip in the press (which effectively attaches=20
  pastedown to the flyleaf).  One of my teachers taught me this a long=20
  time ago, and it works very well.  Takes just 2-3 seconds.

  Carl
  Eugene, OR

  =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

  On Monday, February 9, 2004, at 03:01 PM, Peter D. Verheyen wrote:

  > I've used a PVA / Methylcellulose mix or straight PVA for this=20
  > operation
  > and it works just fine. While reversibility is important in=20
  > conservation
  > work, I do not find that concept relevant for most new bindings,=20
  > especially
  > since the paper will be damaged...  by those not experienced in=20
  > removing
  > wet, weakened, paper that has been glued down.
  >
  > I always use a brush, especially for the size of book mentioned. It's=20=

  > what
  > I'm used to. I use the biggest brush possible and load it up with glue=20=

  > (see
  > above). Brush out from the center to the outside edges. The same works=20=

  > with
  > a roller.
  >
  > If you know the paper will curl, gently bend the corners back, before
  > gluing out. This way, when the paper starts to curl, it will be held=20=

  > back
  > and prevented from getting glue on the flyleaf, or itself. Test with
  > different papers before trying on a book. Another tip is to =
  immediately
  > fold the paper back on itself leaving about an inch with exposed glue.=20=

  > That
  > edge should be parallel to the grain. Use that to align the paper,=20
  > gently
  > rub down, and then carefully peel back the piece that you put back on
  > itself and smooth out. This works VERY well with paste and PVA/MC mix.
  > Straight PVA dries too fast, usually, even if diluted with water.=20
  > ALWAYS
  > glue out the piece of material that will expand the most and allow=20
  > that to
  > relax.. This will avoid bubbles. Paste will cause paper to expand more=20=

  > than
  > PVA. It's an adhesive worth considering. It has the very nice =
  attribute
  > that messes can be gently cleaned with a damp sponge..., IF the paper =
  /
  > cloth can handle it. TEST first to see how the surface reacts. Works=20=

  > great
  > for leather too. Also gives you plenty of time. Just remember to =
  either
  > counter-line the other side to pull the board in, or use the same=20
  > adhesive
  > on the other side.
  >
  > If the problem is with casing in (attaching the cover to the =
  textblock)
  > this technique will work as well. For books with decorated edges...=20
  > I'll
  > insert a clean piece of UNprinted newsprint between the pastedown and=20=

  > the
  > flyleaf, glue out, remove the paper and complete the casing in.
  >
  > My tip, make sure the grain of the endsheet is parallel to the spine.=20=

  > If
  > it's not, you've got a problem because when the paper expands it will=20=

  > be
  > restrained by the spine fold and you will get wicked creases.
  >
  > Board warpage is a naturally occuring event when moisture is added =
  from
  > glue... You get it when covering the case in cloth, leather, .. and=20
  > again
  > when putting down the endsheet, in the opposite direction. The trick=20=

  > is to
  > know your materials, and how much they expand (and retract when dry).=20=

  > For
  > fun, measure a piece of paper when dry, then glue out and measure, =
  then
  > again when dry. Try this with different materials. Let things dry=20
  > between
  > boards (use blotters if needed) and under light weight. This will help=20=

  > keep
  > things flatter. Ditto when casing in.
  >
  > Finally, non of this is earthshaking, and all part of working with the
  > materials we work with. The better one learns to handle different=20
  > materials
  > and how to deal with them, the better the quality of the final =
  product.
  > Experiment, keep records/notes, look at manuals (they're filled with=20=

  > tips).
  >
  > Hope this helps.
  >
  > Peter
  >
  > At 05:31 PM 2/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
  >> PVA is not suitable for end-papers because is not reversible and=20
  >> won't allow
  >> for repositioning, and it is more prone to warping boards, etc.
  >>
  >> Regards,
  >>
  >> Ed Stansell
  >
  >
  > __________________________________
  >
  > Peter D. Verheyen
  > Bookbinder & Conservator
  > <verheyen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  > The Book Arts Web & Book_Arts-L Listserv
  > <http://www.philobiblon.com>
  >
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  >

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     *Postings may not be re-printed in any form without the express
     consent of the author - Please respect their contributions & ©*

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