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Re: [BKARTS] tips to avoid getting glue on paper



I worked in a lab once that used straight PVA, and we set the hinge and
the pastedown at the same time.  Later I studied with a binder in
Eugene, who sets the hinge first, lets it dry (an hour or so), then
lays the endpaper.  Works perfectly 99+% of the time.  I can't remember
how long ago I had to "re-do" a pastedown, because position can be
checked and corrected before making that last step.

Guess we each have our particular ways.  When I am training or teaching
I tell people there is not ONE way to do anything, and there are no new
mistakes.

Carol
Eugene, OR
=======


On Tuesday, February 10, 2004, at 11:02 AM, Rachel M. Kadel-Garcia wrote:

On Tue, 10 Feb 2004, Edward Stansell wrote:

Peter,

Reversibility is also important outside of restoration/conservation.
Have you never positioned a book incorrectly when casing-in?  Have you
never gotten a wrinkle in the paste-down? How about a turned under
corner on you lining. All of these prove a need for reversibility in
paste-down adhesive. The more inexperienced one is, the more they are
in
need of the dynamic of reversibility.

Preface: I am only an egg.


The lab I work in uses straight PVA for casing-in, and there are
basically
two ways we deal with problems such as you describe.

After gluing up the pastedown and placing the cover, we immediately
open
the cover again and smooth down the pastedown with a piece of reemay.
This gets rid of any wrinkles, and if the book is incorrectly
positioned,
you can see it now before the glue has set, while the endsheet is still
easily liftable.

If a problem with the casing-in only becomes apparent after the glue
has
set, we cut the pastedown even with the cambric liner, lift the stub,
peel
off and discard the rest of the pastedown; the second leaf of the
double-folio endpaper becomes the new pastedown.

This approach obviously isn't universally applicable.

Rachel




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