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Re: [BKARTS] toning paper / endpapers



Your mix of mc seems way too viscous.  Why use methylcellulose at all?
(maybe us paper conservators don't know something the book folks do?).
Some good tips for toning papers are to use the widest brush possible.
Have the paper damp to begin with. Build color up gradually.  Don't
overwork the paper- you'll churn up fibers, size, surface
characteristics, etc which will result in a less than perfect coverage.
Don't handle much while wet.
Try dipping the papers in a colored dye/paint bath then drip dry on a
line.  I've never tried it, but the marblers out there might know; I
think ox gall might reduce the surface tension of water, which if mixed
in your paints (in theory at least) cause them to flow better and not
pool into brush strokes.  

I've noticed also that some papers can only go through so many washes of
color before they begin to get speckled and loose the flatness of color
you're going for.

As for weight conversions- that's a tricky subject.  Weight in pounds
comes from the weight of a given ream of paper.  That in turn can change
according to the size of the moulded sheets in the ream (double crown,
imperial, royal, etc). Kind of an antiquated system to say the least.
It's difficult to have an exact conversion calculation between this and
grams per square meter (gsm).  The book "Which Paper" by Silvie Turner,
publ Design Books, has an appendix which explains the whole thing in
more depth.

Doug Sanders

> 
> More newbie questions from me -- point me to the archives if need be.
> 
> I just tried toning some dove grey 80 lb. paper needed for a minor
> repair using methyl cellulose and acrylic paint. I had difficulty
> getting the right tone and a smooth look: the brush strokes are quite
> visible. 
> What weight should I be looking for (and how does
> "gsm" compare to "lbs" when reading descriptions of papers)?
> 
> 
> ---Amy West
> 
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