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Re: [BKARTS] bookcloth / Ikegami



Eric,

Although I now have a few semi-traditional drying boards, what
I used in the beginning was part of a sheet of sheetrock left
over from something or other I was doing around the house.

After dusting it off I took a can of acrylic spray varnish and gave
it two coats; one up and down, the other side to side.

Light coats, so moisture would go both ways but enough that it
was still easy to remove the lined items.

Whenever paste built up all I had to do was go over the sheetrock
with a damp sponge.

It lasted for years.

Jack


>I'm sitting here with my copy of Kojiro Ikegami's Japanese Bookbinding.
>In Chapter 3, Basic Binding Procedure, he talks about backing book
>cover cloth.  He writes:
>
> "The special board used for drying the backed material is traditionally
>  constructed from a latticed frame to which are pasted layers of
>  Japanese paper, which are subsequently waterproofed with a coat
>  of persimmon tannin or synthetic resin. (snip)
>
>I'm a little confused about any surface remaining porous after
>receiving a coat of synthetic resin, but what I'm really writing
>to ask is: what happens to your latticed frame or your piece of
>plywood over time?  Are you supposed to try and remove the excess
>paste?  Just keep working over it?  Sand it down?  Replace it when
>the surface gets too uneven?
>
>I'm embarking on a project and have a nice big sheet of MDF (heavy,
>smooth particle board) I'm thinking of using.  But I'm planning
>ahead and hoping that I'll be able to use it multiple times.
>
>Thanks for any insights, Eric

Thompson Conservation Lab.
7549 N. Fenwick
Portland, Oregon  97217
USA

503/735-3942


http://www.teleport.com/~tcl

"The lyfe so short; the craft so long to lerne."
Chaucer  _Parlement of Foules_ 1386

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