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Re: [BKARTS] Gluing (Layering) boards to prevent warpage

On Mar 26, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Betty Storz wrote:

In order to get the thickness desired, three boards are glued
together. Can the layers be in any order, outside layers thin, inside
layer (opposite grain direction) thicker; all layers same thickness; outside layers thick, inside layer thin. Does it matter? Could I use
Bristol for the outside layers and one of the acid-free book boards
for the center layer (or vice-versa)?

I have experimented with cross-laminating boards for bindings. I certainly could have done more, but the following is what I have done. ---------
But First: I highly recommend that you make up samples using different materials, with different grain directions; record this information on the samples, and after they are dry, allow them to stand (do not let them sit flat on your bench --- they need to stand, with air on both sides) and watch them as they cure and age. If they pull one way or another, or they stay flat, you should be able to determine what works best for you, for your environment.

Contrary to what some might say, I feel that cross-laminating is an excellent way to obtain a good solid, stable board that can be exceptionally thin. A thin board is needed, especially for thin, small books that will be covered with leather. What I have done is to select a thick paper or thin card stock that will build-up (laminate) to the proper thickness -- be careful not to make the resulting boards too thick. The orientation may need to be altered depending on the number of layers.
If for example, I am going for three layers that will also be wrapped with an outer layer of paper as a barrier, that paper will have the grain running head-to-tail. Therefore, I would use a core layer of card stock (i.e. 10 or 20 pt map folder stock, or 2-ply mat board) with the grain spine-to-fore edge; the inner and outer laminates must be of the same material (but can be different from the core) with the grain running head-to-tail. These will get the adhesive (i.e. PVA) and will be adhered to the core (the core does not get any adhesive). After pressing the laminate and allowing it to dry (between absorbent boards with some air drying in between --- the total time at least overnight), the laminated board can then be wrapped with a good, solid text weight paper --- I usually have one layer on the inside with a wrap of paper over the spine edge, the result is two layers on the inside for a positive "pull".
Hope this is clear?
Bill Minter

William Minter Bookbinding & Conservation, Inc.
4364 Woodbury Pike
Woodbury, PA  16695
Fax:   814-793-4045
Email:    wminter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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