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[BKARTS] Paris locations

[Stiffles yawn]

Every so often someone asks the same question and I send them the following, with the warning that the list is a bit old, and it’s more about writing than binding. I’ve edited it somewhat for the occasion. 

Oh – and if you go to the Anarchist Bookstore at 145 rue Amelot you can probably pick up one of their copies of my book on museums (in French), last copies available until it’s reissued by a commercial publisher in France. Could be worth a lot of money some day...

Paris locations
Permanent Resources in France: 


Cluny Museum
Hotel de Cluny
6 Place Paul Painlevé, Paris 75005.
An exceptional collection of medieval art in an exceptional setting. It has a reputation for visual dullness, and in fact the presentation is not very glamorous: it's not the Cloisters in New York. The collections are as fine as the Cloisters', but with less compromise for the viewer. You have to look and know what you're looking for.
The collections are organized according to a medieval guild system, and the areas devoted to book production are wonderful. There is a display of fifteenth-century book sheaths, cord bindings, inkpots, lead initials, and a bronze pen with an ear-cleaner at the other end (hey, if you can't hear you can't take dictation). The manuscript collection consists of separate pages set in transparent panels, which can be turned and consulted. Both sides are visible, the full page is displayed, and the styles are extremely varied: not your major masterpieces but one the most accessible overview of writing and illumination styles I have ever seen.
Many scholarly lectures are scheduled, as well as events for kids.
Maison de Victor Hugo
Place des Vosges, Paris 75004.
The house occupied by the great poet. The first room has some fine examples of Romantic lettering design, as well as a set of wooden book boards in Neo-Gothic style designed for Adèle H..
Père Lachaise Cemetery
Paris 75020.
One of the great tourist destinations, and a treasure-trove of nineteenth-and twentieth- century inscriptions - even English. Check behind the monument to Oscar Wilde, by Jacob Epstein.

Nôtre Dame
Paris 75001.
Many of the churches have a handful of interesting plaques or paintings - Saint Etienne du Mont, for instance. In Nôtre Dame, look for the tombstone of Etienne Yver (1468) in the Chapelle Sainte Clotilde, just before the North Transept.

Metro Concorde
The Concorde station of the Metro (direction Issy/Porte de la Chapelle) has a stunning decoration of tiles spelling out the Declaration of the Rights of Man of 1789.

Musée du stylo et de l'écriture
3 rue Guy de Maupassant, Paris (metro Pompe).
Dimanche de 14h a 18 et sur rendez-vous.
Tragically, the International Museum of the Fountain Pen is/was/shall be temporarily undergoing renovations. Last heard it was open by appointment only, and Sundays from 2 to 6.

Musées de la Ville de Paris:



Bibliothèque Forney
1, rue du Figuier
Paris 75004
Housed in the Medieval Hôtel de Sens, this up-to-date lending and research library specializes in commercial and decorative arts and crafts. Many English titles are available.

Centre des Arts du Livre et de l'Estampe
Hotel Nissim de Camondo
63 rue de Monceau, Paris 75008
A private school associated with the Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, offering professional formation and amateur instruction in the book arts. Three-year full-time programs in binding, or gilding, or restoration. Two-year program in framing. Calligraphy classes for amateurs. Avoid the museum in the same building, unless you're interested in eighteenth-century furniture and knick-knacks.  
Ecole supérieure Estienne des arts et industries graphiques
18 boulevard Auguste Blanqui, Paris 75013
A vocational school. The research library is open the last Friday and Saturday in January. There are occasional open workshops.

Institut de Recherche et d'Histoire des Textes
40 avenue d'Iena, Paris 75016

Musée de l'Assistance Publique
47 Quai de la Tournelle, Paris 75005
A handful of unusual manuscript books; A few entry books for eighteenth-century orphanages etc. are fascinating displays of penmanship.



38, rue de Bassano, Paris 75008
tel (331) 47 20 67 30
tel (eves):
Online artists books, etc.
Boulevard des Ecritures
Puces de Saint Ouen, Marche Vernaison
99 rue des Rosiers, Allee 7, stand 128 bis
tel (sat, sun, mon)
tel (eves):
Antique pen nibs and such.

Librairie du Compagnonnage
2 rue de Brosse 75004
Specializes in books about traditional craftsmanship.
A number of interesting shops around the corner, on the Rue du Pont Louis -Philippe. 

Goldbeaters since 1834 
Les Enluminures
34 allée Riesener, Le Louvre des Antiquaires,
2, Place du Palais-Royal, Paris 75001
01-42-60-15-58. fax: 01-40-15-00-25.
Run by Sandra Hindman, a respected scholar who shares her time between Chicago and Paris. Fine collection of medieval manuscripts and pages; Dr. Hindman has also developed an interest in nineteenth-century and early twentieth century works.

Florence Loewy. Books by Artists
9/11 rue de Thorigny, Paris 75003
Up the street from the Musée Picasso. 

Librairie Nicaise
145 boulevard Saint Germain, Paris 75006
Artists' Books, with frequent shows. Across the street from the Church.

Librairie You-Feng
45 rue Monsieur le Prince, Paris 75006
Chinese books and calligraphy supplies. Numerous listings for classes are posted in the window.

Marché Brancion
Bus lines 95 and 89 to the Porte de Vanves. Every Saturday.
Second-hand books. Right around the corner from La Ruche, where Soutine and his smelly pals had their studios.

3 rue des Poitevins and 6 rue Danton, Paris 75006
Bookbinding supplies and decorated papers. The bookbinding supplies are in the annex at rue des Poitevins, across the street from the main store.

Rougier et Plé.
13/15 Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, Paris 75003
01-44-54-81-00. Fax: 01-42-76-03-90.
A major craft supplier. There is another store in Paris, several more in the suburbs and in the provinces. They also sell by mail. The section on calligraphy is predictably small, the selection of bookbinding supplies, impressive: presses of all types, gilding supplies, etc. They also sponsor free demonstrations and workshops, and supply considerable technical information. Check their bin of leather scraps: they're sold by the kilo. A good bulletin board in the basement.

Magasin Sennelier. 3,Quai Voltaire 75007 Paris. Tél:0142607215. Fax:0142610069
Magasin Sennelier Frères. 4 bis rue de la Grande Chaumière 75006 Paris.
One of the great names in art and craft supplies - very knowledgeable help.



Bibliotheques de la Ville de Paris: frequent shows and events.

info at communications@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Paul Werner, New York

WOID: A journal of visual language
THE ORANGE PRESS, publishing "Vellum Preparation: History and Technique"
DRAGONSBLOOD AND ASHES, a project to research and practice the techniques of the medieval scribe

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This page last changed: May 19, 2009